Monday, November 15, 2010

no pics, but I survived many things today...makaha beach with huge backwash, locals and 20 ft waves, and a board that I'm not at all familiar with! Then at tracks with nice 5 ft waves and about 5 ft deep water I survived except for two cuts, one on each foot...
Tomorrow I'll have an 8 ft board and six foot waves and if it's as good as adam says it is...I may in fact be in surfing bliss!

sorry no pics, but an iPhone usually screams haole!

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these comments are probably from people i know...therefore they should be ignored at all costs!!